CHURROS CON CHOCOLATE
Echoes of formative trips to Europe can add an extra, dynamic layer to your experiences. We go to Chocolatería San Ginés every single time we visit Madrid, so memories of churros past are part of the allure.
The first time I had churros at Chocolatería San Ginés was 2003. It was a happy detour before going back to the hostel. My college friends and I had just left the famous multi level nightclub Kapital. Kapital is one of those places that doesn’t even open until midnight and closes when the sun is coming up. We dipped our churros in stout cups of melted chocolate and laughed about how we stuck out like sore thumbs amongst the fashionable techno vibes. We were aghast at what they charged for a rum and coke. Google tells me Kapital still exists, but we cannot remark on its appropriateness for children, nor how much cocktails cost today.
In Madrid, churros con chocolate are often the last stop after a crazy night out. It could be midnight or the sun could be coming up, and these fried dough treats can fortify you and soak up any remaining alcohol in your system. Chocolatería San Ginés fills the role of a 24-hour diner back in the United States. For night owls and early birds, the menu is the same. You see, churros con chocolate is also a typical breakfast in Madrid. Seriously.
This is fantastic news for families with children. It doesn’t matter if you have jet lag or ants in your pants, Chocolatería San Ginés is there at any odd hour. No schedule or lack of schedule can keep you from this typical Spanish treat.
Chocolatería San Ginés is an institution, serving traditional churros con chocolate since 1894. And, for much of its history it’s been open 24 hours a day.
Chocolatería San Ginés offers chocolate with churros or with porras. Porras are a thicker, doughier version of the churros (and come 2 to an order compared to 6 churros). Note that unlike churros you may have seen in the US or Mexico, these are not coated in cinnamon sugar, they are simply (delicious) fried dough. Further, the chocolate is significantly less sweet and thicker than hot chocolate you may be used to. All of this is a good thing – these two treats complement each other perfectly and won’t leave your kids screaming and running in circles with a sugar high. Their multi page menu does offer other choices, but let’s not mess around. The only messing around should be the chocolate on everybody’s faces.
The parent pro move is adding a café con leche (coffee with milk) to your order. When everything arrives, the first thing you do is put about 3-5 spoons of the chocolate straight into your café con leche, and stir up the most fabulous mocha you will find in Spain.
In recent years, San Ginés has expanded, opening additional locations around Madrid and beyond to Japan and Colombia. However, we think it should be experienced in its original location at Pasadzido de San Ginés, tucked around the corner from the bustle of Puerta del Sol. As you approach, no matter the hour, you will likely encounter a line out the door. Join the line, grab a numbered ticket, and prepare your order in your mind as you wait for your number to be called. When called, approach the counter and place your order. The staff is used to visitors from all over the world and accommodating of English (or less than stellar Spanish).
The second parent pro move is knowing that you order, pay, THEN select an open table and seat your family. Indoor (main floor and downstairs) and outdoor seating are available. The indoor downstairs floor is difficult to access with a stroller, squirmy toddler or a lot of gear. You will be navigating a busy, winding staircase to find a seat. It’s worth noting that the restrooms are downstairs. No changing tables.
Staff are constantly monitoring tables in order to quickly clean them, and to ensure that guests do not seat themselves before placing their order. So, be respectful, and follow this sequence of business! A staff member will bring out your order to your table. Service is quick and no frills, but you can linger over your chocolate for as long as you like, or as long as your kids can handle it.
There’s great people watching outside Chocolatería San Ginés. Maybe you’ll catch a glimpse of your former self.