ONE WHIRLWIND DAY IN MADRID
If you only had one day in Madrid, what would you do?
This is the kind of dinner table query somebody might offer as a conversation starter. We don’t recommend Madrid at breakneck speed, but it is an interesting thought experiment. If jet lag and nap time were no object, could you experience the history, culture and food of Madrid between sunrise and sunset? Sure! Why not? If you are staying longer, this is what your highlight reel might look like. For those intrepid souls with limited time in Spain’s capital city, prepare yourselves for one whirlwind day.
9:00 am
Light Breakfast at Santa Eulalia Patisserie
For purposes of this exercise, you are waking up in the La Latina neighborhood. Your entire family had an excellent night of sleep. You decide to splurge on an extra special breakfast treat. Admire the myriad pastries and desserts underneath the glass case, too pretty to eat. Settle on something in the puff pastry family – you can never go wrong with a napolitana de chocolate. The coffee game at Santa Eulalia Patisserie is equally refined.
10:00 am
Get Lost in La Latina
Don’t really get lost. Take some time to wander around. This is the Madrid in our collective imagination: bars, restaurants, winding streets and little, old ladies pulling their groceries in two-wheeled bags. It’s been a social hub for centuries and all signs point to that tradition continuing. This part of your walk is about absorbing all the unremarkable details that somehow add up to a real sense of place.
11:00 am
Plaza de Oriente via Calle del Factor
Try to pop out of La Latina at Plaza de la Villa. Cross Calle Mayor and head toward Plaza de Oriente via Calle del Factor. This sparsely trafficked road quickly rises above the tourist fray and exposes a tiny green park overlooking the Royal Palace. It’s breathtaking. After the grandeur, pass through Plaza de Oriente, a quiet maze of shrubs, statues and fountains.
11:30 am
Plaza de España
Make your way up to Plaza de España for a quick photo opp at the Monumento Cervantes. Carved in stone, the father of the modern novel (Miguel Cervantes) looks over his most indelible characters – bronze statues of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza on horseback. By now, the kids will have noticed the epic playground. The scale of the slides and the variety of swings are beyond the usual prefab playground apparati. Truth be told, I couldn’t resist attempting the balance bar and the giant round swing. Exit the plaza and go across Gran Vía and you’ll quickly transition from the hustle and bustle of Madrid’s most commercial sector into a quiet neighborhood.
12:30 pm
Bodegas El Maño
This is opening time. But, this day’s excursion isn’t about playing it cool. It’s past noon and you haven’t had a drink yet. Bodegas El Maño has been around for nearly 100 years. Grab a vermouth or beer. Nosh on some pan con tomate. They rub their toast with garlic before adding the tomato, our favorite preparation. We let the kids split a Fanta, rolling the dice on sugar intake for the day – throwing caution to the wind.
1:30 pm
Bocadillos in Puerta del Sol
As you make your way back to Puerta del Sol you realize the tapas snack wasn’t enough. Luckily, you will pass a Viandas Hacienda Zorita de Salamanca. Pick up some bocadillas de jamón, potato chips and some refreshments. Plop down with your backs to one of the fountains in Puerta del Sol and people watch while you contemplate your madcap day in the literal center of Spain. There’s city hall! There’s the iconic Tio Pepe sign! There’s that statue of the bear nuzzling a madrono tree (Oso y Madroño)!
2:30 pm
Get a Drink in Plaza Mayor
From Puerta del Sol, it’s easy to cut over to Plaza Mayor. In the 17th century humongous plazas were all the rage in Europe, and they still are today. The concept of this plaza was replicated all over Spain, as almost every city, town and village has something called a Plaza Mayor. This is of course, the most-Mayor! There’s always something going on in Plaza Mayor: fairs, expos, buskers, acrobats, jugglers, statue people and over-priced restaurants. But, there’s no stopping you from having a drink at one of these restaurants. You’re paying for the view or an impromptu show. We once saw a clown (or was he technically a mime?) work an entire corner of the Plaza Mayor into fits of laughter. I recognize clowns (and mimes) are a divisive subject matter, so visit at your own risk.
4:30 pm
Chocolatería San Ginés
Now that you’ve been fortified, it’s time for a family-pick-me-up. Café con leche for you and churros for everybody! We can’t imagine spending any amount of time in Madrid without stopping here. It’s the kind of stop that boosts energy levels and morale. Meander through parts of Las Huertas or Lavapiés to the Reina Sofía. You can really take your time getting here. You could take the Metro, but you only have one day to wring out as much Madrid as possible.
6:00 pm
Reina Sofía Museum
We want to spend as much time outdoors as possible, but this offers a quick hit of culture in the form of 20th century modern art. Reina Sofía has free hours at 7:00 pm (except on Sundays on holidays), so for purposes of this whirlwind day, you pay for a ticket while a queue forms outside. You’ll essentially have the museum to yourself until the floodgates open at 7:00 pm. At which time you’ll be gone! We’ll never forget the Picasso and Dalí paintings, our children will never forget the multiple glass elevator rides. To each his or her own.
7:15 pm
Dinner at La Caníbal
Right behind the Reina Sofía is our new favorite Madrid restaurant. La Caníbal’s focus on sourcing is apparent in their menu which features several curated cheese boards. Dishes are expertly executed, a mix of mains and tapas with international flair. Servers are knowledgeable and properly schooled in the details of their natural wines by the glass and wall of beers on tap. It’s a popular restaurant, so we are getting in with the kids at an unpopular time.
9:30 pm
Plaza de Santa Ana
Where did the day go? It’s time to unwind. And after navigating some narrow streets today, elbow room is in order. We’re partial to Plaza de Santa Ana. It’s just the right size. Several restaurants and bars offer outside seating, but the wine list at La Vinoteca usually triumphs. And with nightfall, the Hotel ME Reina Madrid anchoring the plaza baths itself in stunning lights. As you reflect on your whirlwind day and watch people pass through the plaza, consider this: for Madrileños the night hasn’t even begun yet!