PRIORITIZING THE SIGHTS IN SINTRA
You earmarked Sintra as a day trip from Lisbon. But, you can’t do it all in one day. Now what?
Sintra is a fairytale setting. As a green oasis on a mountain, Sintra has been the summer retreat for royalty and their hangers-on for centuries. Now, it is the most popular day trip destination from Lisbon. Visitors can enjoy the cooler air, views of the Atlantic Ocean and a storybook city center. Spectacular castles, palaces and mansions, once extravagant private residences, are now availed to the public. This forces the day tripper to make choices.
An aggressive itinerary might include three sights, but a more realistic approach with children is one or two of the sights. But, which ones? This is a breakdown (ranked more or less in order) of the accessibility and appropriateness for children at the various sights of Sintra.
Get to / from Sintra
Commuter trains arrive from Lisbon several times per hour and deposit you in downtown Sintra. Trains depart from several stations around Lisbon, with Rossio being most central. You can use the same Carris card you use for metro, busses and trams in Lisbon proper. Just make sure you have €2.40 on the card for each way. Also, avoid the train headed to Mira Sintra-Melecas, that’s an entirely different part of town!
When you arrive at the train station, you will be encountered by a bevy of drivers offering to take you to the various sights or rolling them all into a whirlwind mega tour. The vehicles range from tuk tuks to convertibles. You might be able to negotiate transportation for the entire day. Just keep in mind that these modes of transportation aren’t likely to have car seats.
If you wish to remain on foot, follow the road directly in front of the train station exits. Exit the roundabout at 11 o’clock and follow Volta do Duche as it wraps around to the historical and touristic center Largo Rainha Dona Amélia.
There are two local bus routes to consider from the train station (or Largo Rainha Dona Amélia) that will get you to all the sights. Exact stops and timetables for the 434 bus (Pena line) and 435 bus (Palace line) can be found on this website Sintra public bus information. Tickets can be purchased directly from the driver or at the ticket office near the train station. €5 gives you hop on & off privileges.
Ubers are relatively cheap in Sintra, but may not have car seats.
Quinta da Regaleira
What is it? This sprawling estate is known for its mysterious and magical atmosphere. Hairpin paths are etched into the hillside leading to numerous enchanting gardens and water features. A neo-Manueline castle sits in the middle while limestone caves and tunnels can be explored underground.
What’s the main draw? The castle’s exterior evokes Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and is worth a quick peek inside. The well is mystical and leads to some fascinating underground tunnels and waterfalls.
Layout: It’s vertical. Generally speaking the paths and tunnels are paved, but there are occasionally stairs and assorted trip hazards (tree roots, stones, etc.). Walking around is like navigating a mini-golf course.
Should kids go there? Yes, but be aware that it is a meditative, mystical space. Toddlers on foot would be nightmarish. A stroller is manageable, provided you have a helper for stairs. Take note: strollers are outright banned at the well.
Ease to get there: Walkable from historic city center.
Tickets: Save yourself waiting in line by purchasing tickets ahead of time. Even purchasing online at the last minute could save you time.
Palácio Nacional de Sintra
What is it? This is the oldest palace in Lisbon, dating back over 1,000 years. It was customary over the centuries for the king to hand over the title and operations of the palace and Sintra to his queen, so it came to be known as The House of Queens.
What’s the Main Draw? When the last queen departed in exile in 1910, the palace was handed directly over to the state and became a national monument. Therefore, most of the original decor is on display, as it was. Our favorite room was the kitchen, complete with giant copper pots (and reason for the unique conical chimneys).
Layout: As you move from room to room, you’ll see architectural developments spanning many different epochs. You can cruise around at your own pace, with a few sets of stairs.
Should kids go there? Yes. Just beware that some priceless artifacts are only protected by a rope and stanchion. You can push a stroller through the palace, but you’ll have a few tight turns and doorways.
Ease to get there: It’s the heart of downtown Sintra – you can’t miss it!
Tickets: Purchase tickets by date ahead of time here.
Palácio da Pena (and Parque da Pena)
What is it? Bold colors and an impossible mountain top roost makes this one of the most iconic buildings in all of Portugal. A hodgepodge of styles creates a gaudy palace that signals just how out of touch royalty was before its demise.
What’s the main draw? The views are sweeping on bright, clear days. You can see Lisbon and the Atlantic Ocean. The inside of the palace is well preserved with original furniture and decorations. The Parque da Pena is the largest arboretum in Portugal, which contains countless botanical collections.
Layout: In addition to the palace, there are some ramparts and grounds to discover. Your ticket will also grant you access to Parque da Pena. It’s about a 10–minute walk uphill from the Parque entrance to the Palácio, but there is a bus on property that can transfer you for about €3.
Should kids go there? Yes…but. Keep in mind the inside of the palace can be tight and has stairs, so consider a ‘Divide & Conquer’ strategy. The Parque da Pena (especially in spring and summer) offers plenty of low-stakes, high-reward exploration opportunities for kids.
Ease to get there: 1-hour walk straight uphill (don’t pull anything). 434 Bus or a car hire. You are not allowed to drive yourself. If your kids get car sick easily, you should know that it’s a twisty-turny drive up to the top
Tickets: We highly recommend that you purchase Palácio (and bus transfer) tickets here ahead of time. You don’t want to get all the way up the mountain and have to wait for the next available timed entry (it could be hours!). Remember that the half hour entry window for your timed ticket is for the Palácio. Apply whatever time and energy you have left after the Palácio to exploring the Parque.
Palacio de Montserrate
What is it? Long a refuge for poets and writers, these grounds are forever linked with Romanticism. Exuberant gardens amaze visitors with the exotic species sourced from every corner of the world. The details of the rooms in the palace (as you’d expect from romantic architecture) are exquisite.
What’s the main draw? The Palace’s inspiration is a unique blend of Gothic, Moorish and Indian.
Layout: This is an extensive estate.
Should kids go there? Absolutely. Not too many tricky elevation changes.
Ease to get there: Probably too far to walk from the historic city center. 435 Bus or car advisable.
Tickets: To avoid queues at the box office, buy your ticket online.
Tivoli Palacio de Setais
What is it? This neoclassical palace from 1783 consists of two wings connected by a triumphal arch added in 1802, which frames a view of Pena Palace in the distance.
What’s the main draw? The lush garden and huge lawn (large flat surfaces are rare in Sintra). Views of Pena Palace and Castelo dos Mouros were considered when building this in the first place.
Layout: Sprawling.
Should kids go there? Yes, in that it is a very safe environment. Great accessiblity, but is not the most interesting place in Sintra.
Ease to get there: 20-minute walk from historic city center. 435 Bus or car advisable.
Tickets: Interior is restricted to hotel guests, but the gardens and lawn are free to the public.
Castelo dos Moros
What is it? This castle was built as a Moorish stronghold in the 8th century and conquered by the first King of Portugal, D. Afonso Henriques in 1147.
What’s the main draw? The irregular castle layout mirrors the ridgeline it sits upon and connects two mountain peaks. The views are incredible.
Layout: Stone steps and stone walls. A bit treacherous.
Should kids go there? It would be a bit nervy for parents of kids under 5 years old. There are lots of stairs and precarious ramparts.
Ease to get there: 30-40 minute walk straight uphill (feel the burn). 434 Bus or a car hire. Do not try to drive up.
Tickets: Can be purchased ahead of time here.